Adventures in April (with the Queen.) April 2019.

Andrew and I on the bus, repping the hometown. IMG_4461

Katherine looking so grown up, in the Stones tee she “had to have.”

Busy weekend days. We make them play with us. Crazy Saturday nights. We make them read to us.

9653D41B-04DB-453C-96F2-F83A0CFA9726Sehrish and I checked out a new restaurant Glou Glou. So good. Butternut squash flatbread and the potatoes were my favorite.

The next week we went to see the Queen open the new panda exhibit at the Copenhagen Zoo.

Awaiting the the Queen and company on the red carpet.

Queen Margrethe II is 79, and has ruled for 47 years. Crown Princess Mary is married to her son, the heir apparent Crown Prince Frederik.

We were in the press pool (we help out with a Danish expat magazine.) img_2550.jpegThe Queen, Crown Princess Mary, and all the VIPS.

The cute new pandas.

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xoxo-sk

ps. Two excellent finds in April. Unicorn fruit loops for K. The cereal selection here is rather slim. And the Mikkeller brewery/Creature Comforts collab. Our favorite Athens, Georgia brewery and our favorite Danish brewery had a beer baby. Small world.

Disgusting Food Museum. March 2019.

One day after school, my friend and I decided to take the train over to Sweden to see their Disgusting Food Museum. It is just that, gross food from around the world. Or at least gross to you. America was represented as well with Poptarts and jell-o.IMG_4410

Escamoles (above)- so gross. Below are casu marzu, a Sardinian pecorino cheese with live maggots; the Durian fruit; Pork Brains (American.)

IMG_4417 2Adventurous Andrew smelled it all. He may not eat much of anything, but he smells everything.

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Much discussion over who was brave enough to touch the bull penis. Only Andrew managed it. img_4425.jpgI decided I would try everything, why not? When would I get another chance to try all this gross stuff again. I defiantly wouldn’t ever be ordering it off any menu. Andreas and his vomit bucket awaited me. Below are just some of the stuff I tried. Andreas kept pulling stuff from underneath the counter for me to sample.

Hákarl is Icelandic fermented shark. It was awful, one of the worst. The surströmming (fermented Swedish herring) was the actual worst.  The bugs were fine, I’ve tried similar things before. The bigger ones though are awfully dry and hard to get down without water. The Danes love their salt licorice, I do not.

All the stinky cheeses. Smelly and strong. If you are a big fan of stinky cheeses (I am not), these maybe wouldn’t be too bad. Maybe…

Some of the other offerings included the century eggs and durian fruit. The egg was not as bad as it looked. The durian smelled worse then it tasted, and it tasted bad.IMG_4433Don’t let this fool you. They didn’t try anything really. I think they ate some of the dried bugs (which my kids have tried before), and this pic is of them trying root beer. img_4426-2.jpgMake that 28 days. Going in I didn’t think I was going to throw up, but after a couple….IMG_4445We finished the day with dinner at the kid’s favorite Malmö restaurant, the Surf Shack. Burgers, fries, and all you can drink cokes and slushies.  IMG_4450

xoxo-sk

Matt and Melissa are here! March 2019.

We were super exited to have our cousins Matt and Melissa from Atlanta come visit us for a few days.ac6bafd3-89f5-4a49-96db-750aeeb0cc83.jpgWe got to play tour guide and show them around. First stop being coffee/tea/treats.

IMG_4275Everyone loves a good picture at Nyhavn.

4DE12684-A2FD-45A7-888B-8067AA4C626EWe walked up the water to visit the Little Mermaid.

Andrew walked along the water, and to no one’s surprise, managed to partially fall in. A Dad nearby looked on panicked, but we are used to this by now and waved it off. He was fine.IMG_4318Right by the Little Mermaid (and our house) is Kastellet. It’s a pentagon shaped citadel that was in active use from 1624 to the 1830s. Some of the buildings are still in use today. It also serves as a public park. We call it the star park, because that’s what it looks like on the map. Matt, Andy, Katherine, and Melissa standing by the Rows, old soldier’s barracks. Andrew is on top of the ramparts.

The Dutch styled windmill was built in 1847, replacing the original one built in 1718. It sits atop the King’s Bastion. 4F4F675D-B970-47D5-8973-BF890041B4B2img_4349.jpgAndrew exploring again, he wanted seaweed apparently. He almost fell in again, he might have… “Good thing we are close to home.” he said. IMG_4353

We dropped the kids off and popped in for drinks at Tap10 down the road.IMG_4356Before they left, we managed an adult only dinner at Tight. Really good. Andy got his mussels frites again, Matt and I got ribs, and Melissa got cod. One of my favorites, apple crumble for dessert.

Such fun time with the cousins, lots of great conversation and fun. Melissa is now Katherine’s new bestie. Can’t wait to see y’all when we come home!

xoxo-sk

March Madness. March 2019.

F012D46F-E3B0-476C-A6EA-DAFB980E36A4March begins with Fastelavn. It is kinda a mix between Halloween and Carnival. The kids wore their costumes to school. This year it was pretty much a repeat of when we celebrated (American) Halloween- a unicorn and a skeleton.

A little dinner and drinks with my friend Jessica at PS Bar & Grill and the Black Swan.768B00E5-0754-4D6A-86E8-A894D1249D33We went exploring in Assistens Cemetery in Nørrebro.

IMG_4046A copy of the famous sculpture, Laocoon and his Sons. We saw the original in Rome. A copy of Michelangelo’s Moses is on the right.

19d52eaa-167e-409e-838d-6d3101547194.jpgFollowing our walk through the park, we went to get some treats. K got cheesecake and warm chocolate. Not hot chocolate, only warm. Danes are pretty literal. Also, the cheesecake isn’t what you are used to in America. It’s still good, but not real “cheesecake” good.

We did an amazing Ladies field trip to Marienlyst Spa, up in Helsingør. We started the day with a breakfast buffet.c7e99be4-11af-421c-8db2-a98fd366f29b.jpg

We stayed warm in the heated pools and hot tub. There was a gorgeous view of the sea and Kronborg Castle in the distance.

Then it was time for the Sauna session. You go to the sauna for 15 minutes, then go jump in the water, then repeat, ending in the spa to warm yourself back up. It’s so so cold, but amazingly refreshing. Kinda like cryotherapy.img_3739.jpeg

96C2A7BB-2AAD-4E9B-BB7B-82D5C21476FASome random food pics from this month. Far left- the Danish version of nachos from Vaca; middle pic- Andrew’s fav, Dorito Roulette, some are nacho flavor, some are spicy; far right- a yummy lunch Andy and I shared at Armandos.

IMG_4114The kids have been looking forward to the big third grade play since the got here. They are learning all about mythology and this year’s play was Perseus and Medusa. It was an impressive production, with the kids helping to write the play, make the costumes, and design the set. Katherine was Hera in her class’s production, while Andrew was a God/narrator.

IMG_4404They did a fantastic job. Such great work by everyone. So proud.6abfb652-4e66-49b6-9241-264950863952.jpgI will leave you with a short story by Katherine that she wrote in her after-school writing class.

xoxo-sk

ps. Look what Andy learned to do this month. He is so proud.

Birthday Fun. February 2019.

IMG_3777We celebrated my Birthday on the 14th. I got sweet cards and gifts from the family. Andy sent me to get a massively expensive pedicure (seriously they are pricey here, and I would never go on my own.) It was lovely. Andy was still really sick, so we decided to celebrate properly the next weekend.

Valentine’s Day boxes from the Grands in America. These treats don’t last long.

Some of Katherine’s favorite things- haircuts and cookies.

We had an awesome ladies night at Copenhot. We soaked in the hot!! tub and then jumped in the cold!! harbor. I’m so Danish now.

IMG_3824With Andy feeling better, we went to dinner at the French lalala for a belated birthday celebration.

Mussels frites for Andy, one of his favorites. Oysters and lobster bisque, one of my favorites, for me. Champagne for all.

IMG_3860Ending the night at our favorite neighborhood bar, The Black Swan.IMG_3877The weather was beautiful (finally) so my friend, Sehrish and I decided to take advantage of it and walk around Copenhagen. We started the day with coffee (her) and tea (me).img_3914.jpgWe walked from Nørreport thru City Central to Christiania. We wanted to try the vegetarian restaurant there, Morgenstedet. I had vegetarian lasagna and a variety of their daily salads.

Love the street art here.

We walked from Christiana, toward Nyhavn. There is an art installation by Tróndur Patursson, Cosmic Space, by the North Atlantic House. It is shaped like an igloo, and it’s meant to represent Tróndur’s oceanic journeys. It’s kind of like being inside a glass kaleidoscope.

IMG_3955Ending a lovely day with another tea in Nyhavn.

February ends and March begins with a basketball tournament at CIS.

xoxo-sk

ps. Found a new Danish, well actually Swedish, delight. Semla. They are cardamum buns filled with whipped cream and marzipan. We got ours at Juno the Bakery. They are only made around Shrove Tuesday.

Aqualand. February 2019.

We spent one night at Aqualand in Budapest before heading back to Copenhagen. Aqualand is a big indoor waterpark/hotel. They have a wave pool, water slides, a lazy river, kids club, hot tubs, and all sorts of pools and saunas.IMG_3755We got there in the early evening, and the kids couldn’t wait to get in the water. Andy and I waited until the next day to go in. Andy’s still not feeling great, but he’s a team player. IMG_3767A half day in Vienna, a train ride, a bus ride, and playing in the water make for a very tired group.

Back at it, next morning. Not many pictures, as I left my phone in the locker.

IMG_3737The kids spent most of the morning wearing themselves out, going down every ride they could. After lunch, they went to the kids club (the babysitter), and Andy and I got to visit all the saunas. They had four different kinds and an ice cold plunge pool. I am not a huge sauna person, but Andy really likes them. I can only stand them for so long.

And we are spent. We had a great time, but I think everyone was ready to get home and spend the rest of Winter break in recovery mode.

xoxo-sk

Sick in Vienna. February 2019.

Day two in Vienna. Update on Andy- feeling like death. High fever throughout the night, with meds. Kids and I got breakfast, and like the good wife I am, we let him sleep in until we have to check out. A little bummed we missed out on our morning plans, but Andy is rarely sick. When he does admit to being sick, he is usually feeling really bad. Good thing I’ve learned to front load our vacations.

After his morning lie in and me packing him full of medicine, Andy did feel a little better (and fever seemed under control.) We decided to take it easy and just stroll around to some of the sights we still hadn’t seen. Since we were staying in Stephansplatz, first stop was Stephansdom. The gothic St. Stephen’s Church dominates Vienna’s main square and was built in the early 12th century. Walking up towards the church, you can see the beautiful tiled roof. It is covered with 230,000 glazed tiles. The roof is gorgeous, the inside is just okay. I know… I have truly been spoiled seeing the interiors and exteriors of some of Europe’s most magnificent churches. IMG_1958Pictures of the Church from the prior evening. The tile work on the other side of the Cathedral’s roof shows the two headed eagle, a symbol of Austria, alongside the initials FI for Emperor Franz I. 
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IMG_1962K loves lighting prayer candles. She says she prays for her family and world peace.

img_1965.jpegAnother pretty Church that I can’t remember the name of (or that I couldn’t figure out from Google maps.)IMG_1982This Art Nouveau clock, built in 1911 by Franz von Matsch, is tucked away between two Anker Insurance Company buildings. It performs a little parade of historic figures everyday at noon. Our timing didn’t work out to see the show, but the clock was really cool looking.IMG_1975They do love their composers here. Although technically born in the town of Bonn, Beethoven spent most most of his adult life in Vienna (35 years.) He originally came to study under Mozart at 17, but circumstances took him back to Bonn, and Mozart died in the meantime. He returned at 22 to study under Haydn. The picture on the right is the Sebastian Kneipp Fountain. He was a Bavarian priest and the forefather of naturopathic medicine.


We spent our afternoon in Stadtpark. It was Vienna’s first communal park and was opened in 1862. The Park is 28 acres. It holds lots of statues and monuments dedicated to well known Viennese artists, composers, and writers.

left- Frederick von Amerling (famous Austrian portrait painter in the 19th century); middle- Andreas Zelinka (mayor of Vienna in the mid 1880s); right- Hans Makart (well known painter, designer, and decorator)IMG_1005IMG_1030Monument to Austrian songwriter, composer, and conductor, Robert Stoltz. His career took him to Berlin often, and during WW2, he smuggled Jews from Germany in the trunk of his limo 21 times. The Nazi’s eventually came after him, and he had to leave Austria.

We had some yummy pastries in the park, and we found a playground (of course!!)

img_1032.jpegVienna, our time together was too short. Hopefully, we will meet again. I still need to visit my favorite painting, The Kiss, at The Belvedere, visit Schonbrunn Palace, and see the Imperial jewels at the Schatzhammer.IMG_3680xoxo-sk

Vienna. February 2019.

Everyone is excited (look at the faces) for Vienna! Vienna is Austria’s capitol, and the majority of people here speak German. Vienna was settled by Celts as early as 500 BC, and then used as a military base for the Romans in 15 BC (defense against the Germanic tribes.) In the 15th century, it became the center of the Holy Roman Empire, with Vienna becoming the base for the Habsburg dynasty. During the Napoleonic Wars (1804) it became the official capitol of the new Austrian Empire.

img_3666.jpgAfter checking into the hotel, we headed past the Evangelical Church HB (Reformed City Church) for some lunch at the Wiener Küche. We shared some schnitzel, potatoes (both fried and creamy), and apple streusel. I also had some kind of squash soup, at least that’s what I think it was. Doesn’t really matter; it was a lunch special, and it was good.img_3677.jpg

img_3671.jpgWe started our Viennese exploration at the Hofburg Palace. The Hofburg was the home of the Royal Habsburgs for 600 years. It was built in the 13th century as a medieval castle and expanded with each new emperor’s reign. The Hofburg is a massive complex, consisting of 18 wings, 2,600 rooms, and 19 courtyards. Presently, it is the home and workplace of the President of Austria, with 5,000 people living and working there.img_1818.jpegimg_3682.jpgThe Amalienburg (above) was built in the 16th century, and it houses Empress Sisi’s apartments, part of the Imperial Apartments we toured.

Interior Courtyard of the Hofburg with statues of Emperor Francis II.

We explored the massive Silver Collection first. There are 7,000 items displayed.

My new favorite way to explore museums/castles/etc. are self guided audio tours. Andrew especially loved it. You go at your own pace. The Hofburg did a great job telling interesting stories about each thing. IMG_3707Kids were pretty impressed with the massive (30m!) gold Milan Centerpiece. IMG_3719A plate collection selfie.IMG_3722The end of my legally taken pictures in the Silver Collection.IMG_1782A scale model of the Hofburg circa 1900.img_1787.jpegI am usually very much a rule follower. But sometimes, I can’t help myself. I’ve found that with some Palaces/Castles you aren’t allowed to take pictures. Apparently, there is no photography permitted in the Imperial Apartments or the Sisi Museum. They don’t allow it because (the lady said) it slowed people down and (via the website) people were taking pictures with the flash on (big no no.) So, I didn’t feel too bad about sneaking some (quick and non flash) pics. Andy (of all people) didn’t like me misbehaving.

Emperor Franz Joseph and his wife Empress Elisabeth’s apartments. They were lovely, and the audio guide was really informative and interesting. The red room (above left) was the Emperor’s study. The blue/green room looks like a dining room, but was actually a conference room. The red room with the small bed was the Emperor’s bedroom.

We visited the Sisi Museum last. K loved listening to the stories about the tragic Empress Elisabeth. Sisi, as she was called, was born in 1837 in Munich, into the Bavarian royal house. At 16, she married Emperor Franz Joseph I. The Emperor was in love with Sisi, who was thought to be one of the most beautiful women in Europe. Unfortunately, she did not enjoy the Hapsburg court life, full of rules and protocols. She was unprepared, unhappy, and had a dominating Mother-in-law. Her first daughter died in 1857, and Sisi spiraled into a depression that would stay with her. Throughout her life Sisi exercised assiduously, fasted, and dieted. It was the only way she felt in control. (Her diet and exercise regime were really crazy, you can look up the details.) She gave birth to an heir in 1858, and seemed to get some happiness out of it, becoming more assertive at court. In 1889, her only son and his mistress committed suicide. Sisi never recovered from the tragic loss and withdrew from court. She traveled, usually incognito, and became obsessed with preserving her beauty. In 1898, while traveling privately in Geneva, Sisi was stabbed by an Italian anarchist. Such an interesting and sad lady.img_1802.jpegimg_1822.jpegWalking from the Hofburg in Hero’s Square through the outer castle gate to the massive Maria-Theresien-Platz. We are standing in front of the Empress Maria Theresa Monument. She sits atop the monument, with her military commanders on horses below her. The Square is populated by various museums.IMG_1834Kunsthistorisches Museum, I think… There were tons of very similar beautiful museums in the Square (which we did not have time to visit.) I absolutely loved the sculptured bushes.

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The under construction Parliament. The picture above is what it is supposed to look like. From what we could tell it is a beautiful building.

Continuing down Ring Road, we came across the Dr. Karl Renner monument in Rathauspark. He was an Austrian politician. It is one of the more interesting looking (not that well done?) monument/statues I’ve seen.

Vienna City Hall/Rathaus had a little winter festival going on in the Park in front of it. (It had a double decker ice skating rink!!)img_1854.jpegThe City Hall is the seat of the local Vienna government. It was built in the late 19th century. Atop the 98m tower is the Rathausmann, a medieval knight, symbolically guarding City Hall.


IMG_1875img_2147.jpgThe gorgeous Votive Church (my fav Vienna Church) was constructed in 1879 after an assassination attempt on Emperor Franz Joseph (Empress Sisi’s husband) in 1853. The Church was built to give thanks to God for saving the Emperor’s life. It is built in the same Neo-Gothic style as the neighboring Rathaus. They look very similar.

IMG_1885As the afternoon went on, Andy started to not feel good (this does not bode well, sickness usually hits the kids and me, but rarely him.) With hopes tea may revive him, we stop at Aida Cafe. We have the usual, English Breakfast for me and Earl Gray for Andy, with Apple Cake and Aida Cake with cream. After the amazing cakes and pastries at Ruszwarn in Buda, these paled in comparison.

Schottenkirche, Our Lady of the Scots Catholic Church founded in 12th century bu Benedictine monks.

Bis Auf Widerruf Gestatteter Durchgang (Until revoked permitted passage) sign atop the entrance to the Freyung Passage, a fan shopping arcade with a fancy fountain.

img_1918.jpegChurch on the Court (or Church of the Nine Choirs of Angles) was built at the end of the 14th century. It is located in the Am Hof, one of the most historic Squares in Vienna. IMG_1911In the center of the square is the Marian Column, built the in thanks of Mary for helping defeat the Swedish during the Thirty Years’ War.
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Peterskirche/ The Church of Saint Peter is believed by some to date back to the times of Charlemagne. A Roman church, built on a Roman settlement, in the 4th century. The newest version of this Church is a Baroque creation, built in the early 1700s.img_1934.jpeg

Andrew and I in front of the Plague Column on Graben. The Column was built after the Great Plague epidemic in 1679. It is a really cool looking sculpture, and you can’t really see it well in this picture.IMG_1936A quick stroll by the apartment Mozart and his family lived in from 1784 to 1787 when he was at his creative peak.

img_1944.jpegDinner was a shared sausage the size of K’s head (and she has a big head.)img_1956.jpegxoxo-sk

ps. The day ended with Andy feeling rough, and us all turning in early. It’s not always pretty. #reallife

Pest. February 2019.

IMG_3442We passed this store on the first day here, and Katherine knew she couldn’t leave Budapest without having a unicorn doughnut. She loved looking at it, but did not love how it tasted. She is not a mascapone fan. Her Dad helped out.

 

img_3447.jpgIn the 18th century, St. Stephan’s Basilica began it’s life as a theater. Plans and fundraising for a new church began in the early to mid 1800s, and the Basilica was consecrated in 1905.

There is beautiful tile work on the grounds right in front of the Basilica and a gorgeous dome inside.

And the hand!!! One of the Church’s claim to fame is King Stephen’s (the first Hungarian King and the Church’s namesake) mummified right hand. At least that’s what they claim. (You can read the whole crazy story on the Basilica’s website if you really want.) They call this holy relic, “the Holy Right.”IMG_3463After the Basilica, we strolled down Andrássy Avenue. There are beautiful homes and shops along the walk. The beautiful Hungarian State Opera House was covered in scaffolding. I’m sure it’s lovely, and they were nice enough to show us a picture of what we were missing. That’s the way it goes sometimes with old cities and old buildings.

Quick stop for lunch- pizza for the kids and chicken paprika sandwiched for the adults.


img_3502.jpgAndrássy Avenue ends at the city’s largest square, Hero’s Square. It was built at the end of the 19th century, and it honors important people from Hungarian history.  It is punctuated by the Millennium Monument. The 36m tall colonnade monument has the Archangel Gabriel atop it, holding the Hungarian Holy Crown of St. Stephen and a double cross. At the bottom of the monument are 7 Magyar Chieftains. Statues on the Left and Right include Hungarian kings, leaders, and military heros.

Beyond Hero’s Square is City Park. My favorite thing in the park was Vajdahunyd Castle.img_3520.jpgVajdahunyad Castle was built in 1896. It was designed by Ignác Alpár to resemble various buildings in the Hungarian Kingdom, especially Hunyad Castle in Transylvania. It is said Bram Stoker’s Castle Dracula was based on Hunyad Castle. It is a hodgepodge of architectural styles.img_3524.jpg

IMG_3527The Ják Chapel. The inspiration for the Castle’s Chapel was a 13th century Abbey Church in Ják (western Hungary.)

Katherine hanging with Daranyi Ignac, a Hungarian politician, in the Castle’s courtyard.img_3529.jpg

IMG_3538The largest and one of the most popular thermal bath in Europe is the Széchenyi Thermal Bath. This medicinal bath is heated by underground thermal springs, with the water full of healing minerals. It was built in 1913.img_3539-e1556559966566.jpg

After an afternoon of walking (and playing), we were tired and decided to take the M1 back to our Airbnb. Operating since 1896, the MI or Line One is Budapest’s oldest metro line.

A quick nap before we set off again.IMG_3554

IMG_3582The beautiful Dohány Street Synagogue. It was built in the mid 19th century and is the largest synagouge in Europe, holding 3,000 people. Unfortunately, since we scaled back on some of our outings, we weren’t able to get over to this side of town to visit during the day. It did look beautiful lit up at night. This Moorish influenced complex also houses the Hungarian Jewish Museum, a cemetery, Hero’s Temple, and a Holocaust Memorial Park. IMG_3583Beautiful ornamental details.

Budapest has these really cool ruins bars in what was once the Jewish ghetto. The bars are in old dilapidated buildings, left abandoned in the decades after WW2 and the deportation of most of the Jewish population. These alternative spaces have an eclectic feel with their crazy mismatched decor. We visited Szimpla Kert, one of the originals. In the room we were in, my seat was an old 80s style cube tv. There were computer monitors hooked up, with old 90s style screensavers playing. If we had more time and no kids with us, I would’ve loved to do a Ruins Bar Tour. It was really quirky and cool.IMG_3615Yeah, we were those people with their kids and their ipads at the bar. We picked a popular touristy one, so there were all kinds of people there, no one cared. Kids thought all the decorations were crazy.IMG_3616After our quick drink, we headed to dinner at kid friendly (and Scottish chain restaurant) BrewDog.

You know she is really tired when even the iPad won’t keep her up.IMG_3634Andrew tried some of Andy’s hot wings. For a boy who is a super unadventurous eater, it’s always shocking to me he will try hot stuff.

IMG_3481Goodbye Budapest, you were great, wish we could have done more. Maybe an adults only visit is in the future…

xoxo-sk