Author: susannekee

From Oslo, we took the train to Göthenburg, Sweden. As per the previous post, the kids got their McDonalds fix at the train station in Oslo. Andy and I, on the there hand, took our dinner to go and ate on the train. Being the classy girl I am, I jumped at the chance to eat my beloved Subway. I am not a huge Subway fan when I am in the States, but for some reason, it has become my go to fast food in Europe. (They don’t have one in CPH.) Andy got some fancy panini.

We have made it. The kids were excited, because this is their favorite kinda hotel room- bunk beds.

We set off exploring Göthenberg the next morning. Lilla Bommen aka the Lipstick aka the Lego House is a massive building beside the harbour. It is 282 feet high and was built in 1989. It is a very cool looking structure.

The Opera House built in 1994. 

The old boats moored in the Lilla Bommen harbour.

Candy break with some crazy Nerd flavors.

The German Christian Church, established in 1623. The building was completed in 1783.

The City Hall.

The Göthenberg Cathedral (back and front.) It was built in 1633.

Katherine and some fun statues- Poseidon and what kinda looks like Falkor, the Luckdragon, from the movie, Never Ending Story.

Saluhallen is a large food market, with a massive selection of yummy stuff.

Götaplatsen Square with a large statue of Poseidon erected in 1931.

A small little park we found with a lovely pond and some swings.

xoxo-sk

My favorite place in Oslo was the Opera House. It is a beautiful building with a large slanted roof for you to climb. When you reach the top (which was not easy in the snow), you are rewarded with fabulous views of the harbor and Oslo.  

Next stop was the Akershus Fortress. Akershus is a sprawling medieval complex that was built in the 1300s. It’s been used as a royal residence, military base, and now a museum. We explored around the fortress’s walkways and battlements, lots of hills, twists, and turns.

Andrew is trying to breech the castle’s walls.

So much snow- kids are into it. Katherine and I have matching boots.

Keeping our hangry kids happy is key to an enjoyable trip.

Off to Vigeland Park. As it is a little ways from the city, we took a tram. Yes, Andrew is playing Pókemon Go on Andy’s phone.

But first we found a playground, which we obviously must stop at.Vigeland Sculpture Park has of over 200 pieces by Norwegian sculptor Gustav Vigeland. It was built between 1939 and 1949. The pieces are made of bronze and granite. These are just some of my favorites and some of our recreations.

I feel you sister.Interestingly, my favorite part of Vigeland was the decorative iron gates. It’s hard to get a good picture, but they are amazing.

In the center of the park is “The Monolith.” It is 46 feet tall and made out of a single piece of granite. There are 121 figures on it. After we explored the park, K and I shared a slice of apple cake and hot chocolate at Anne på Landet.

“Enjoy yourself.” And enjoy ourselves we did Oslo, you were wonderful. It was a great trip, and we are now onto Göthenburg. But fear not, the kids had McDonalds at the train station before we left.

xoxo-sk

ps. Always love paying for the toilet.

If you didn’t know, Andrew loves art. While not a huge fan of museums, he does enjoy seeing his favorite paintings. When we told him the painting, “The Scream” by Edvard Munch was in Oslo, he was excited to see it.

The painting is housed in The National Gallery. Lucky for us, we got to see it before the Gallery closed for renovations in 2019.

We signed the guest book. Katherine with a heart, Andrew with a knife through a heart…

“The Last Shots” by Arne Ekeland.

They had a room set up where you could try your hand at sketching a sculpture. Both kids gave it a go.

Andrew’s turned out pretty impressive. I framed it. (K did not finish hers.) 

Andrew and a Monet.Andrew and his favorite artist, van Gogh.Life imitating art. Andrew and “The Scream.”

Andy and I liked these- Silence and Mystery. They are so melancholy. 

xoxo-sk

 

First stop after we disembarked from the ship and we checked in (and Andy took a work call), was lunch. Right around the corner from our hotel was a cute pizzeria, Mamma Pizza. You know our kids love their pizza. I think pizza is Andrew’s love language.

Then we set off to explore Oslo.

First stop- Oslo Cathedral, built in late 1600s. No pictures from the inside due to services. The kids loved the snow. LOVED the snow. They mostly just climbed the hills made from the cleared snow, and they really enjoyed the crunch the fresh snow made under their boots when they walked. And of course they loved making snow angels.

…greatest of all is love. Good words to live by.

Andrew meet a friend while heading through town.

The Grand Hotel decorated beautifully for Christmas.

As you walk along Karl Johans Gate, Oslo’s main road, you come across lots of Oslo’s famous buildings. The Norwegian Parliament.The National Theater, founded in 1829.

One great thing about visiting Oslo in December is the Christmas Markets. We got to meet Swedish Santa, try some Swedish treats, and warm our hands by the smokey fire. I love the atmosphere in the Christmas markets.

In the middle of the aptly named Royal Palace Park is the Royal Place. The Palace was built in the 19th century and serves in both a residential and official capacity with reception rooms and offices. It has 173 rooms, and sadly for me is only open to the public during the summer.

I loved this sculptural chair and art installation. It did not photograph well though.

We visited a trifecta of churches- St. Edmund’s Church, Trinity Church, and St. Olav’s Catholic Cathedral. The children were thrilled.

Quick stop at one more Christmas market in Youngstorget. 

They do love their reindeers here.

We popped in to look around the Nobel Peace Center.

TheTown Hall/Rådhuset and a totally random sculpture of the Pied Piper to end our day.

xoxo-sk

ps. Everywhere was card only, which is fine by me. Less hassle, no exchanging money. It is very card friendly in the Nordic countries, but definitely not in other European countries (Germany, Hungary, Czechoslovakia come to mind.) 

We pass the DFDS port on our way to school everyday, and the kids have wanted to go on a cruise since we’ve been here. They do an overnight cruise to Oslo that is poplar here. You leave Copenhagen around 1630 and arrive in Oslo at 900 the next day. So for one of their Christmas presents, we decided to take them on a cruise to Oslo. The kids were super excited to go, and they loved it. This is small ship without may typical cruise ships amenities. They were easily impressed. I though it was ok, not something I’d do again, but happy we did it once.All aboard.

Katherine’s Titanic moment.

I’ve been on multiple cruises before, but it’s been awhile. The rooms are smaller than I remember. The kids didn’t seem to mind.

Drinks for the adults and cards for the kids before we head to bed. They actually had some kids activities, but they were in Danish.
Everybody (but Andy) loves an elevator selfie.

Bunkbed bedtime. The kids both had to have the top bunk, which was fine with me, I am a bottom bunk kinda girl. Nighttime was my least favorite part of the cruise. Kids were restless and just couldn’t settle down. Andy went to bed immediately, so it obviously didn’t bother him.

The kids checking out Oslo as we head to port.Kids were excited to be in Oslo, and I was ready to get off the ship.We have arrived. It was cold, snowy, and beautiful when we got there. Very excited to began our adventures in Oslo.

xoxo-sk

It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas, in Denmark. The streets are decorated with lights, the Christmas Markets are opening, and the Danish Christmas beer is out.

 

With December, comes a much awaited visit from Mimi. We got to show her all the Danish holiday festivities, starting with Tivoli in all its glory.

 

A twofer- Christmas market and basketball tournament at CIS.

 

Julemarkeds (Christmas Markets) are everywhere in Copenhagen. We took Mimi to a few to browse the stalls and try out all the Danish holiday treats.

Danish flødeboller is a marshmallow dessert with a wafer base and covered in a thin layer of chocolate. Churros aren’t Danish but they are popular here, at Christmas and throughout the year. These were so fresh and piping hot. Flæskesteg is the traditional Danish roast pork with crackling. It’s what a lot of Danes have for Christmas dinner. I have made it before, but have yet to get it as crispy they do. My favorite Danish Christmas treat is æbleskiver. They are round (cooked in a special pan) and kinda taste like pancakes. They are served with powdered sugar and raspberry jam. So good. And last, but certainly not least is gløgg. Gløgg is typically a spiced mulled red wine and a must have during the Danish Christmas season. It’s not my favorite, but Andy likes it.

 

 

Opening Christmas presents with Mimi- lots of xbox games, LOL dolls, and Pokemon cards.

One last trip to McDonalds with Mimi before she heads back home. Andrew was one full and happy boy. You don’t even want to know the amount of food he consumed.

 

A lovely traditional Danish Christmas luncheon. The Danes love their schnapps and herring; me, not so much. I did eat it, I’m all about embracing the culture. The salmon course was my favorite. We had a traditional Swedish cat tail for dessert.

 

The Danish trees can be a little skinny and sparse, but Andy got us a beautiful one.

Santa air dries his clothes like a true Dane.

 

 

Katherine’s favorite festive outfits (she wore the red heart outfit a lot) and her first dangly earrings.

 

Last day of school. CIS has a lovely Christmas assembly the whole school attends.

First day of Christmas break. Sleeping in and ice cream from Social Foodies.

A quick visit to the Glyptotek with some friends. It’s free on Tuesdays.

I am obsessed with the chair the kids are sitting in. I don’t know what it’s called, or where you would get one, or where I would even put it, but I love it.K flosses anywhere and everywhere.

xoxo-sk

As an expat, making new friends can be hard. But, friends are essential. They make things easier, they help fill your days, they answer your questions, they empathize, they just make everything so much better. People you have only known for a short time can make such a huge difference in your life. Just when you needed a friend the most.

Two of my very dear friends are leaving, one is off to France and one to Alaska. They say it comes with the territory, people coming and going, but that doesn’t make the goodbyes any easier.

Kirsten is off to Alaska at the end of the year, but she planned one last group activity- a guided tour of the Thorvaldsen Museum. The Museum holds the works of early 19th century Danish born sculptor, Bertel Thorvaldsen.

Surprise, I loved the gorgeous velvety blue ceilings.

The original plaster of Maximilian 1, the bronze version is in Munch’s Wittelsbacher Platz and his famous rendition of the risen Christ, with his arms outstretched.

Besides the ceilings, my other favorites were these reliefs. They represent Day and Night.

The plaster of the monument to Pope Pius 7. The marble version is displayed in St. Perter’s Cathedral in Rome. Venus with the Apple is on the right.

 

With the leavings come all sorts of celebrating and goodbyes.

Louise’s amazing Birthday celebration. She is off to France.

With karaoke!! I am not good, but I am enthusiastic and I love it.

 

 

Thanksgiving Dinner (the week before) at American Pie Company. The dressing and pumpkin pie were my favorites. So good. I am thankful for them.

 

Goodbye party for Kirsten.

 

Kirsten’s lovely goodbye brunch at Puja’s house.

 

Last bookclub of the year with some of our leaving ladies.

 

 

Our last Ladies night of 2018, celebrating Kirsten. We had dinner at Guru. I have tried Indian food multiple times now, and even when I have an Indian hand-holding me through the ordering process, it just isn’t my thing. The mojito helped though (especially with the heat.) We followed dinner with drinks at Ruby and The Jane.

xoxo-sk

 

 

Back to life. Back to reality. Kids school pics this year.

As I’ve said here before, watching our beloved Georgia Bulldogs from anther country is not always easy. This is our late night family viewing of the Georgia/Florida game. It was hard for Andy not to be there. It’s the first GA/FL game he’s missed in almost twenty years. (I missed last year and when the babies were born.)

Kids were super into it, Andy was tense. Later, around midnight, with the game still going, Andrew came out of his room and puked.

Watching the Kentucky game around midnight.

The seriously late viewing of the Auburn game, that did not start here until 1am. Usually, if the game is really late we (I) try go to bed early and then wakeup for it. Andy does not do this. 

 

It’s Halloween season at Tivoli, and they do such a great job with decorations.

 

Twins at their school’s Halloween Festival. Katherine wanted a picture by herself.

 

After Halloween, Neen came to visit us. We are always so happy to have family here with us. She brought goodies. I try and make the American food last, but it’s gone within the week.

We went to A.C. Perch’s Tea Room. I am a big tea drinker, and we had a lovely pot of Ceylon tea here. I loved lemon curd and scones best.

While Neen stayed home with the kids, Andy and I went out to the Union Kitchen.

It’s always sad when someone has to go, but we had so much fun.

 

It is weird doing Thanksgiving here, as it is (obviously) just a regular day for the Danes. You can find turkeys in Denmark, usually super expensive fresh ones or not so great frozen ones. Since no one in my immediate family really loves turkey or typical thanksgiving food, I cooked my favorites. We also binge watched all the Thanksgiving episodes from Friends.

xoxo-sk

ps.- You do not want to know how much I have to pay for these. The Danes actually expect us to roast our own pumpkins. As if.

Although we already visited Vatican City, we had saved St. Peter’s Basilica for later. Like with the Vatican Museums, we wanted to get there as early as possible to avoid the crowds.

Sorry for all the history, but it is fascinating to me. America is such a baby country compared to Rome, and it is so interesting to see the ebbs and flows over centuries.

In 1st century AD Christianity spread to Rome. At the time, the Emperors had no laws about it or against it. The local authorities did however persecute Christians and continued to do so through the years. In 250 Imperial laws against Christianity started to be passed, and many Christians were punished and killed. Never the less, Christianity continued to grow. In 313 a policy of tolerance was officially made, with Constantine becoming the first Christian Emperor in 324. Christianity was made the official religion in 380, with many of the Pagan temples being turned into churches. Emperor Constantine began building the Old St. Peter’s Basilica in 326. The Roman Empire continued to decline, and Rome lost its importance in the Middle Ages. The population dropping to below 20,000 people. During the Renaissance, the Catholic Church wanted to make Rome prominent again. They begin employing artists like Michelangelo, Raphael, Boticelli and revitalizing the city. The Popes began constructing grand monuments, beautiful public squares, grandiose churches, and a new St. Peter’s Basilica. The Old Basilica had fallen into disrepair in the 15th century, and rather than renovate the Old Basilica, Pope Julius II decided to level it and begin anew. The are Basilica was finished 1626.

The kids in front of the massive bronze Filarete doors. They were from the Old Basilica. 

As you walk in the Basilica, Michelangelo’s Pietà is in the first chapel on your right. We couldn’t go into the chapel, and with the glass wall and lighting it was hard to see and photograph.

As you walk into the nave (central hallway), you can immediately see the enormity of the building.  The Papal alter is straight ahead and to the side are various chapels and alters. When we visited some areas were open, some were closed, and some had mass going on.

Katherine getting some of that holy water.

Touching St. Peter’s toe for blessings.

Some of the chapels.

The Alter of the Chair of Saint Peter by Bernini.

Air vents for the crypts below the Basilica.

The tomb of the Apostle Peter. The Basilica was built on the burial site of Peter, the first Bishop of Rome.

I really can’t stress how magnificent and massive this Basilica is. To put it into perspective, the square footage inside the Basilica is 163,000 sq ft. The floor area of the White House is only 55,000 sq ft.

AK still going strong, and KRK is done.

Andrew liked looking at the intricate tile work on the floors, and as always, I was mesmerized by the ceilings. Looking out into the Square from the Basilica.

The kids enjoyed the colorful Pope’s Swiss guard uniforms.

 

In the afternoon, we took one last walk around Rome. We truly had a great (and exhausting) time here.

The realities of the Trevi Fountain. The kids got really good at maneuvering their way through all the people.

One last Italian margarita pizza for the kids, and one last cacio e pepe for me at Taverna del Seminario.

One last stroll through Piazza Navona.Also, I haven’t mentioned the police presence in Rome. It is everywhere, and they don’t play. 

And one last lemon gelato for K, and cannoli for me. (Don’t worry, Andrew got his version of treats too- bread, all the time.)

Grazie Rome. Arrivederci.

xoxo-sk

ps. We loved our Airbnb. It was right beside St. Peter’s (and an amazing bakery), so we walked through the Square often.

Today we explored Ancient Rome. In the 8th century BC, Rome was ruled by Etruscans. What followed was the rise of the Roman Republic, in 509 BC. Kings were replaced by elected Senators, and Rome became powerful, taking over vast amount of the surrounding areas. A period of civil war and unrest came over Rome, with the ascent of the Republic’s last leader, Julius Caesar. With Caesar’s death, Octavius became the first Emperor in 27 BC. At this point, Rome was the largest city in the world and still growing. Rome’s population peaked in the 2nd century, and Imperial Rome began to take a downward turn. Barbarian invasions began, and in 330 Constantinople was made a second capital. The majority of Romans soon moved to the safer new capital, leaving Rome to its past glories.

One of the Roman’s grandest architectural achievements is the Colosseum. Emperor Vespasian began building the amphitheater in 72 on the site of Nero’s decadent Golden Palace as a gift to the Roman people. It could hold over 50,000 people. It was used for gladiatorial contests, executions, reenactments, flooded for mock sea battles, and for basically any public spectacle. 

The original floor was made of wood and covered with sand. The hypogeum (hidden passageways) were underneath and connected to points outside the arena. The hypogeum had two levels and was full of corridors, cages, pulleys, and elevators to give the animals and gladiators access to the stage above.

The kids were (thankfully) really into the Colosseum. We had prepped them with some edited scenes from the movie Gladiator and some youtube videos so they could imagine what it was like back then.As you can see, there were defiantly a lot of people there (your tickets come with a certain time slot), but it wasn’t bad. We saw everything we wanted to see. Sometimes you may have to wait a minute or so to get a prime viewing spot.

View from the Colosseum of the Temple of Venus and Roma.

Parco del Celio.Arch of Constantine erected in 312. It lies between the Colosseum and Palatine Hill. (Picture is from the top of the Colosseum.)

Quick break for lunch at Café Café. So good. We didn’t have a bad meal here. A and K once again had cheese pizza and were happy.

Then we ventured to the most famous of Rome’s seven hills, Palatine Hill. Palatine Hill is one of the oldest parts on the city and overlooks the Forum on one side and Circus Maximus on the other. It was home to the great palaces of the Roman Emperors and the rich Roman Senators before them. (People have actually inhabited this area since the 10th century BC per excavations.) While day to day life took place in the Forum below, this is where the affluent and powerful lived.

At the foot of Palatine Hill is the is 1st century Arch of Titus. Arches were built to commemorate great military victories, with this one celebrating a victory in the Roman-Jewish War in Judaea. Near the Arch is the ruins of the Temple of Venus and Roma, built by Emperor Hadrian in 135 AD. About to go up the hill. Legend has it that the hill was home to Romulus (the founder of Rome) and Remus. The ruins of the Emperor’s great houses. Kids were unimpressed, but Andy and I loved it.Palace of Domitian garden/stadium.Water garden courtyard of the Domus Augustana.Overlooking Circus Maximus.I think the Forum was Andy’s favorite place we visited here. He took Latin in high school and came here on a school trip.The Nymphaeum of the Mirrors, a niche built into the ancient walls as you make your way down the hill.Halfway up the hill, overlooking the Forum below. As early as the 7th century BC, the Forum was where all the action happened in Rome. It was the political, commercial, and religious center of Rome. It has been added onto and rebuilt over time; most of what we see now is from around the 1st century BC.The Forum’s largest building was the Basilica of Maxentius and Constantine, built in 312 AD.

The Domus Tiberiana, another Emperor’s Palace built into Palatine Hill, seen from the Forum.

The Temple of Romulus, built in 307 AD. It was later turned into a vestibule for the Catholic church, Santi Cosma e Damiano, in 527. The green door and lock are original to the building.

The Temple of Antoninus and Faustina was built in 140. Emperor Antoninus built it for his wife when she died. His name was added upon his death. So romantic.

At this time, the kids were beginning to be over it, the Colosseum had been cool, but a bunch of rocks didn’t quite have the same entertainment value. They powered through.

The Temple of Castor and Pollux from the end of the 1st century BC. Castor and Pollux were the sons of Leda and Jupiter and in 499 BC led the Romans to victory over the Latins. Upon their celebratory return to Rome, they went to Juturna Springs with their horses and then were never seen again.Juturna Springs. It was said these waters had healing properties.

The Temple of Vesta was originally a circular temple, with the Sacred Fire of Vesta at its center. It was first built in the 7th century BC and has been rebuilt many times. The fire was tended round the clock by Priestesses who began their service before the age of ten. The eternal fire was extinguished and the Vestal Virgins disbanded around 380, when Emperor Theodosius made Christianity the official religion.The House of the Vestal Virgins was where the women lived to serve out their thirty year term of service. After they left their position of honor they were free to marry.

The Temple of Caesar. After his assassination in 44 BC, Augustus built a temple to honor his adoptive father in 29 BC. It was built on the site of his cremation, and it is also where Marc Anthony read his last will and testament and gave his famous eulogy. 1600 years later Shakespeare would immortalize Anthony and his (fictionalized) speech in his play Julius Caesar. I actually had to memorize Shakespeare’s version of Anthony’s speech in High School, and I still remember it, at least the first 10 lines or so. “Friends, Romans, Countrymen, lend me you’re ears.”

The very surprisingly unimpressive looking Curia. Then Curia was were the Senate met. The one today had been restored, but was originally was built by Julius Caesar in 44 BC. It was turned into a church in the 7th century.

At the edge of the Forum, is the Arch of Septimus. This Arch was built in 203 and commemorated the Roman defeat of the Parthians.

At one time, the Umbilicus Urbis marked the center of the city, from which everything was measured. The original was from 2nd century BC, and the existing one is from 203 AD.

 

The view from Aventine Hill (another one of Rome’s seven famous hills) of the Emperor’s Palaces and Circus Maximus. Circus Maximus lied in the valley between the two, the Romans used it for chariot racing and their Roman games. It was in use from 6th century BC to 6the century AD.  At its largest in 1st century AD, it held 250,000 people. Currently, it is a public space used for festivals and concerts. Ok, at this point, the kids are tired and my feet hurt. 

 

The Arch of Janus from early 4th century AD. The Rhino statue is pretty recent I think. 

The Mouth of Truth/Bocca della Verità has been located at the Santa Maria de Cosmedin Church since 1632. It is a marble mask of the sea God Oceanus. Legend has it that if you put your hand in the mouth and tell a lie, he will bite your hand off. There was a long line to put your hand in so we just grabbed a picture and moved on. Kids were done, I don’t blame them. A lot was seen today.

Across from the Mouth is the Temple of Hercules Victor in the Forum Boarium. The circular marble temple dates back to 2nd century BC.

 

Ending the day with a gelato stop. Nutella Chocolate/Lemon for K and Strawberry Cheesecake and Caramel for Andy and me. Weird combo I know.

xoxo-sk

ps. We love a walkable city. Besides getting to and from the airport, the only time we took public transport was to the Colosseum/Forum. The kids were grateful.