xoxo-sk

After Hampton Court we went to explore the area around Westminster. We walked by the London Eye on our way there.

Walking over the Westminster Bridge.Westminster Palace. Once a Royal residence, it’s now home of the English Parliament.And the other side of Westminster. It’s hard to get a good picture of it because the building is so long and massive. Lots of action that day with some Brexit protests (both for and against), so there was a major police presence. Big Ben is under reconstruction (2017-2021.) Its name was officially changed in 2012 to the Elizabeth Tower, honoring Queen Elizabeth’s 60 year reign. It was built in 1859.Beside the main Palace of Westminster is the Jewel Tower, what is left from the 14th century version of the Palace. A fire destroyed most of the old Westminster Palace in 1834, but the Jewel Tower survived.

The gothic Westminster Abbey. It has been the site of all coronations since William the Conqueror in 1066. It’s also the final resting place for royalty and the crème de la crème of British society. Also, site of William and Kate’s wedding in 2011, one of 16 royal weddings since 1100. Timing didn’t work out for us to visit. I will just have to add it to my list for next time.The facade of Whitehall’s Banqueting Hall, all that’s left of the once grand palace, a royal residence from 1530 to 1698. King Charles I was executed outside the Hall in 1649.The Banqueting Hall was used to host royal receptions, ceremonies, and masques. Before a series of fires in 1698, Whitehall Palace had 1,500 rooms.

It was a really cool set-up. You lay on the bean bags, listen to the audio tour, and comfortably admire the beautiful Ruben ceiling.

I wasn’t gonna do it, but before we left I couldn’t help myself. Andy passed on playing dress up.We visited the Queen at Buckingham Palace (flag was up, she was in.) BP has been the official London home of the monarch since 1837, but was originally bought by King George III in 1761 for use as a small family home close to neighboring St. James Palace.775 rooms, 52 Royal and guest bedrooms, 188 staff bedrooms, 78 bathrooms. Wow.

Quick attempt at a picture of Clarence House. Official residence of the Prince of Wales and Duchess of Cornwall, Charles and Camilla. It was built in 1827 and has previously been home to Princess Elizabeth and the Duke of Edinburgh (Princess Anne was born here) and the Queen Mother (Queen Elizabeth’s mother.)One last Royal Residence stop – St. James Palace. It was built in the 1530s by King Henry VIII. It was one of the main residences used by the monarch until Queen Victoria moved shop to Buckingham Palace. Members of the Royal Family that currently live there are Princess Anne, Princess Beatrice, and Princess Alexandra. The guards I chatted with while trying to get a good picture seemed very fond of their residents.
St. James is also hard to photograph. It is an oddly shaped building and not what I expected. It’s meandering and so low. It’s also super close to Buckingham Palace and Clarence House.

Dinner and day well done.

xoxo-sk

My favorite place we went was Hampton Court. It played such an important part of the my favorite time, the Tudor reign. Hampton Court Palace is about 15 miles SW of London, an hour train ride for us. Originally owned by Cardinal Wolsey, it was given (as a last ditch effort to save his place in court) to King Henry VIII who enlarged the Palace to use it as a main residence. It was his favorite and one of only two of his remaining residences. (St. James Palace being the other.) King George II was the last monarch to live there. In 1838 it was open to the pubic. For visitation, they have recreated some of the time periods where it was used the most, one being the older Tudor court and another, the newer baroque part built for William III and Mary II. There is also a piece about the Hanoverians court. You walk in through the Main Gate into Base Court. It was the arrival area in the Tudor day. As many as 1,000 courtiers and their servants would stay at the Palace.

If you continue walking you reach the Clock Court. The fifteen foot astronomical clock was placed there in 1540 and it still works.

We first explored the Hampton Court of King Henry’s time, 1529-1547. 

The original Grand Hall remains. He built this Hall with Anne Boleyn, and they decorated it with interlocking Hs and As. When she was beheaded and the King remarried, he got rid of all reminders of her. One HA they missed is all that remains.Hundreds ate in the Grand Hall twice a day. It also served as a place for court entertainment. Shakespeare performed plays here once upon a time. King Andy and Queen Susanne are ready to be entertained.The Great Watching Room, a little closer to the King’s private apartments, only the elite were allowed in. I love the ceiling.

The Processional Gallery is rumored to be haunted by the ghost of Henry’s fifth wife Catherine Howard. She found out she was being charged with adultery and ran down this hall to try and reach the King to plead her case. Guards reached her before she could get to the door. Three months later, she was found guilty and executed (just like her cousin Anne Boleyn.)The Privy Closet where Henry married Katherine Parr, his last wife who managed to outlive him.

The Master Carpenter’s Court is where tradesmen and merchants delivered goods for King Henry’s Court. His kitchen’s were massive with a staff of 200 and 45 rooms strong.

Moving on from the Tudor dynasty.

The Presence Room and the Public Dining Room where King George ate publicly two time a week (1717/18.) The napkins are folded super fancy. Below are replicas of Georgian dress at the time.

The Queen’s Private Apartments where she could casually eat and play games with her ladies and friends. Her Private Bedchamber with its massive canopy is below.

Off to the side of the bedchamber was the Private Dressing Room aka bathroom. Loved the vanity.

And lastly, the Family Dining Room. It looks relatively modern.The Fountain Court. The rooms around it were kitchens and food prep areas.Another highlight was The Chocolate Room. Thomas Tosier was the chocolate maker for both King George I and II. Chocolate was quite the luxury back then.Just making my way up to William and Mary’s State Apartments.

The Guard Chamber where you came before you were allowed into the Presence Chamber.The Presence Chamber is the official throne room. One had to bow or curtsey as they passed, even if the King wasn’t there.The Privy Chamber’s windows give you a beautiful view of the the Privy Garden.

The King’s Great Bedchamber is where the king dressed in public. He actually slept in the more practical small bedchamber beside it. The ceiling was painted by Verrio and depicted the mythological story of Diana.

And lastly, the King’s Closet (office) and Stoolroom (toilet.)

The Privy Garden Terrace that overlooked the Privy Gardens and was used somewhat as a greenhouse.

The Chapel Royal was absolutely beautiful. No pictures allowed though.

The Chapel Court Garden outside the Chapel.The Great Fountain Garden was built by William and Mary. It used to have thirteen large fountains, only one is left.I loved the shape of the yew trees. The Privy Garden has been around since 1533.

The sunken Pond Gardens were originally actual ponds in Henry VIII’s time, they held the fish that was to be eaten at court. Queen Mary II had them emptied and planted with beautiful flowers.

Us starting the maze, Andy is confident; Andy gets overconfident and hits a dead end; we did it.

xoxo-sk

As we strolled back from the Tower, we made our way back down the Thames. As you walk, you can see a 202ft/6m column. The Monument was built in the 1670s. It memorializes the Great Fire of London in 1666. It burned from September 2-5, destroying 2/3 of the city. Interestingly, the Monument is exactly 202ft (its height) from where the fire started, a bakers house on Pudding Lane.

We then walked over the River via the plain London Bridge to Southwark. Southwark Cathedral is the oldest Gothic Church building in London. It began as a convent in 606. It’s been a priory, a Parish Church, and in 1905, became a Cathedral.

A memorial to Bishop Edward Stuart Talbot. A statue of William Shakespeare. He isn’t buried here, but his Globe Theater was nearby and he belonged to this Parish.

I thought the markers on the wall were so beautiful, each one different and unique.

And they had a Cathedral cat, Doorkins!Right beside the Cathedral is the Borough Market. Loved it. If it was closer to our hotel, I would’ve gone back everyday to try something new.

This Southern girl obviously got the BBQ and Mac n cheese, Andy had fish n chips, and then we shared a piece of fudge.

The Original Globe Playhouse was built in 1599, burned to the ground and was rebuilt in 1613/14, and was demolished by the Parliamentarian Puritans after 1644.

The new Globe Theater was built in 1997 about 750ft away from the original. After our foray down to the Southside of the Thames, we crossed back North on the Millennium Bridge. It’s new and jazzy looking, and it was built in (you guessed it) 2000. On the other side of the Bridge is another Cathedral. This one is the fancy St. Paul’s Cathedral. Prince Charles and Princess Dianna were married here in 1981. The original Cathedral dates back to 604. The current building was consecrated in 1697.

The Chapel on the left is the American Memorial Chapel. It memorializes the 28,000 US troops stationed in the UK during WWII.

528 steps to the top.Some other lovely Churches we passed on our way back.

And last stop of the day- Somerset House. It originally was a Tudor palace, belonging to the Duke of Somerset. (He was later executed on Tower Hill.) In later years it has been added to/rebuilt and served as a residence to Royal consorts, Queen Anne of Denmark, Queen Henrietta Maria of France, and is currently a home of the learning and the arts.

Dinner was Thai at Busaba with a nightcap (or two) at the Pub. Great day.

xoxo-sk

I could’ve spent all day here. (I could say that about a lot of stuff here.) I took too many pictures. (I could say this as well about a lot of stuff here.)

The Tower has been part fortress/royal residence/prison during different times in its history. It is comprised of various buildings (built over centuries) set within defensive walls and a moat. There are twenty-one towers in the Tower of London.The Southeast corner of the Tower, the Cradle Tower (early 1300s) and the Well Tower (late 1200s.)

In the Southwest corner of the Tower is the Byward Tower, built in the mid 1200s. Now, it serves as the main tourist entrance.In the middle of the Tower is the central White Tower. Building began by William the Conquerer in 1066 on the keep. It was built as a military stronghold and a royal residence. Over the centuries it’s held many a king (or a deposed king/queen) prisoner. It was whitewashed in 1240 by Henry III. The Royal Armories are on display inside- Teenage King Edward’s armor and his father’s, King Henry VIII’a armor. Note the cod piece.

Wooden carvings of the King’s heads.Always love a good bathroom- A Norman Garderobe.St. John’s Chapel.

It became less a royal residence and more royal prison in Tudor times. Being “sent to the tower” was not a good thing. Elizabeth I was held here before she was queen in the Bell Tower. This part of the Tower was built in the mid to late 1200s.

The Hall where the King would meet with his subjects. You can see the remains of the fireplace. The Kings bedchamber and chapel.

During the War of the Roses, a dethroned King Henry was imprisoned in the tower. He died in 1471, some say he was stabbed while in chapel, while others say he died from grief over his son’s death.

The old Roman city wall. London was founded/invaded by Emperor Claudius and his Roman Army. They built a wall around the city. William the Conqueror built his castle off the remains later.Andy in the Inner Ward (Courtyard.)

Traitor’s Gate was originally built by Edward I around 1275 as a water gate entrance from the Thames to the Tower. During Tudor time, it became known as Traitor’s Gate, as many Tudor prisoners were transported through this gate on their way to the Tower.

While most executions (beheadings usually) were a public spectacle on Tower Hill (outside the Tower), a privileged few nobles were accorded the “honor” of dying on Tower Green. Three Queens, two Lords, and two Ladies. The most famous of which being Queen Anne and Queen Katherine. Both wives of King Henry VIII, 2nd and 5th respectively and at least one of them undeserving of such a fate.

The Tower has long been home to Ravens. A list of all the Raven’s names and dates has been kept since 1880. To keep the tradition going, at least six Ravens currently reside in the Tower.  The Ravenmaster (yes, that is what he is referred to as) trims some feathers on one wing (it doesn’t hurt them) to keep the birds from flying too far away. They hang around their cages and mingle with the visitors. They are bigger then what I imagined with large sharp-looking beaks; I kept my distance.Leaving through the Middle Drawbridge, built by the Duke of Wellington for military purposes in 1834.

xoxo-sk

ps. They misspelled our name.

Good Morning London. Big day ahead, big breakfast. This morning we are headed to the historic Tower.

Walking along the Thames to Tower Hill, you pass by London Bridge, made infamous by the children’s nursery rhyme, London Bridge Is Falling Down. The currant bridge has been around since 1973, but some version of it has been at this spot for 2,000ish years. It was so dazzling, we completely walked past it, not even noticing it.It looked much grander (and cooler) back in the day with houses built on it.The pretty, more eye catching bridge is Tower Bridge. It doesn’t have the name recognition or the longevity that London Bridge has, but it is the one you think of and see when you google London. The Victorian Tower Bridge was opened for use in 1894 and it is painted some interesting shades of blue and gray.

The view from Tower Bridge looking North at the Tower. The view looking South, featuring the HMS Belfast and the Shard. 

The Tower Hill Memorial, memorializing civilian sailors and fishermen with unknown resting places from the first and second World Wars. Red poppies have been used since WW1 to honor fallen servicemen.

xoxo-sk

Are you ready? So many posts on London are coming.

London was always the fantasy, the dream. I’m an Anglophile at heart and have been reading about British history and royalty forever. Seriously, I’ve read everything from biographies to histories, historical fiction to regency romances. I was so happy to finally get to see the places I’ve only read about and imagined come to life.We were only in London for a few days, and I was ready to see and do everything we possibly could in that time. And, of course, Andy was along for the ride. 

We choose to stay by the centrally located Trafalgar Square. This puts all the things we (I) wanted to see within walking distance, which is usually our goal when we stay somewhere for a short time. Trafalgar Square is anchored by the National Gallery and sits North of the Thames, in Covent Garden.

Charles I atop his horse and the looming Corinthian column with Admiral Horatio Nelson on it. Below is the Admiralty Arch (and some construction), connecting Trafalgar Square and the Mall.We arrived in the afternoon, so most of the day was spent exploring our immediate surroundings.One of America’s Founding Father’s, Benjamin Franklin’s house. He was born in Boston, made a name for himself in Philadelphia, and spent 16 years living and working in this house off Craven Street before returning to America to help start the Revolution.

Below is the first headquarters of Scotland Yard, used from 1829-1890. England is an old country, has been in a lot of wars, and has monuments/memorials to commemorate them all.

In Leicester Square is the statue of William Shakespeare. It has been there since 1874.

Right around the corner from Shakespeare is the interesting “A Conversation with Oscar Wilde” memorial of the Irish Oscar Wilde. I like it, it’s different.

In the evening, we made our way to Chinatown.Dinner was prawns and a lobster roll at the aptly titled, Burger and Lobster.

I don’t even know where exactly we ended up, some kind of casino I think? But, Andy was bound and determined to find a tv with the Masters playing.So, first night in London, drinking a Danish Carlsberg (from my adopted home), watching the Masters, played in Georgia (my home.)xoxo-sk

ps. Did you really go to London if you didn’t take a picture of the red telephone booths?

Andrew and I on the bus, repping the hometown. 

Katherine looking so grown up, in the Stones tee she “had to have.”

Busy weekend days. We make them play with us. Crazy Saturday nights. We make them read to us.

Sehrish and I checked out a new restaurant Glou Glou. So good. Butternut squash flatbread and the potatoes were my favorite.

The next week we went to see the Queen open the new panda exhibit at the Copenhagen Zoo.

Awaiting the the Queen and company on the red carpet.

Queen Margrethe II is 79, and has ruled for 47 years. Crown Princess Mary is married to her son, the heir apparent Crown Prince Frederik.

We were in the press pool (we help out with a Danish expat magazine.) The Queen, Crown Princess Mary, and all the VIPS.

The cute new pandas.

xoxo-sk

ps. Two excellent finds in April. Unicorn fruit loops for K. The cereal selection here is rather slim. And the Mikkeller brewery/Creature Comforts collab. Our favorite Athens, Georgia brewery and our favorite Danish brewery had a beer baby. Small world.

One day after school, my friend and I decided to take the train over to Sweden to see their Disgusting Food Museum. It is just that, gross food from around the world. Or at least gross to you. America was represented as well with Poptarts and jell-o.

Escamoles (above)- so gross. Below are casu marzu, a Sardinian pecorino cheese with live maggots; the Durian fruit; Pork Brains (American.)

Adventurous Andrew smelled it all. He may not eat much of anything, but he smells everything.

Much discussion over who was brave enough to touch the bull penis. Only Andrew managed it. I decided I would try everything, why not? When would I get another chance to try all this gross stuff again. I defiantly wouldn’t ever be ordering it off any menu. Andreas and his vomit bucket awaited me. Below are just some of the stuff I tried. Andreas kept pulling stuff from underneath the counter for me to sample.

Hákarl is Icelandic fermented shark. It was awful, one of the worst. The surströmming (fermented Swedish herring) was the actual worst.  The bugs were fine, I’ve tried similar things before. The bigger ones though are awfully dry and hard to get down without water. The Danes love their salt licorice, I do not.

All the stinky cheeses. Smelly and strong. If you are a big fan of stinky cheeses (I am not), these maybe wouldn’t be too bad. Maybe…

Some of the other offerings included the century eggs and durian fruit. The egg was not as bad as it looked. The durian smelled worse then it tasted, and it tasted bad.Don’t let this fool you. They didn’t try anything really. I think they ate some of the dried bugs (which my kids have tried before), and this pic is of them trying root beer. Make that 28 days. Going in I didn’t think I was going to throw up, but after a couple….We finished the day with dinner at the kid’s favorite Malmö restaurant, the Surf Shack. Burgers, fries, and all you can drink cokes and slushies.  

xoxo-sk

We were super exited to have our cousins Matt and Melissa from Atlanta come visit us for a few days.We got to play tour guide and show them around. First stop being coffee/tea/treats.

Everyone loves a good picture at Nyhavn.

We walked up the water to visit the Little Mermaid.

Andrew walked along the water, and to no one’s surprise, managed to partially fall in. A Dad nearby looked on panicked, but we are used to this by now and waved it off. He was fine.Right by the Little Mermaid (and our house) is Kastellet. It’s a pentagon shaped citadel that was in active use from 1624 to the 1830s. Some of the buildings are still in use today. It also serves as a public park. We call it the star park, because that’s what it looks like on the map. Matt, Andy, Katherine, and Melissa standing by the Rows, old soldier’s barracks. Andrew is on top of the ramparts.

The Dutch styled windmill was built in 1847, replacing the original one built in 1718. It sits atop the King’s Bastion. Andrew exploring again, he wanted seaweed apparently. He almost fell in again, he might have… “Good thing we are close to home.” he said. 

We dropped the kids off and popped in for drinks at Tap10 down the road.Before they left, we managed an adult only dinner at Tight. Really good. Andy got his mussels frites again, Matt and I got ribs, and Melissa got cod. One of my favorites, apple crumble for dessert.

Such fun time with the cousins, lots of great conversation and fun. Melissa is now Katherine’s new bestie. Can’t wait to see y’all when we come home!

xoxo-sk

March begins with Fastelavn. It is kinda a mix between Halloween and Carnival. The kids wore their costumes to school. This year it was pretty much a repeat of when we celebrated (American) Halloween- a unicorn and a skeleton.

A little dinner and drinks with my friend Jessica at PS Bar & Grill and the Black Swan.We went exploring in Assistens Cemetery in Nørrebro.

A copy of the famous sculpture, Laocoon and his Sons. We saw the original in Rome. A copy of Michelangelo’s Moses is on the right.

Following our walk through the park, we went to get some treats. K got cheesecake and warm chocolate. Not hot chocolate, only warm. Danes are pretty literal. Also, the cheesecake isn’t what you are used to in America. It’s still good, but not real “cheesecake” good.

We did an amazing Ladies field trip to Marienlyst Spa, up in Helsingør. We started the day with a breakfast buffet.

We stayed warm in the heated pools and hot tub. There was a gorgeous view of the sea and Kronborg Castle in the distance.

Then it was time for the Sauna session. You go to the sauna for 15 minutes, then go jump in the water, then repeat, ending in the spa to warm yourself back up. It’s so so cold, but amazingly refreshing. Kinda like cryotherapy.

Some random food pics from this month. Far left- the Danish version of nachos from Vaca; middle pic- Andrew’s fav, Dorito Roulette, some are nacho flavor, some are spicy; far right- a yummy lunch Andy and I shared at Armandos.

The kids have been looking forward to the big third grade play since the got here. They are learning all about mythology and this year’s play was Perseus and Medusa. It was an impressive production, with the kids helping to write the play, make the costumes, and design the set. Katherine was Hera in her class’s production, while Andrew was a God/narrator.

They did a fantastic job. Such great work by everyone. So proud.I will leave you with a short story by Katherine that she wrote in her after-school writing class.

xoxo-sk

ps. Look what Andy learned to do this month. He is so proud.